One of the things people frequently comment on is how delicious the food tastes here. I have often wondered why. Over the years, our kitchen team has changed. The way I cook has changed too, and I am sure there are a hundred small things that are done differently now than they were a few years ago. Yet, much to my delight, friends and guests seem to be enjoying the food more and more every time they come. I feel happy and proud.
Lately, I feel that I may have begun to understand at least part of the reason.
During my last visit to a big city, I bought some fruit from a supermarket. The fruit looked beautiful. The apples were perfectly shaped, the colours were deep and just right, and they were quite sweet too. But when I ate them, something seemed to be missing. They did not have the bouquet of tastes that I find in the fruit from our orchard, or even in fruit grown elsewhere in this region. This is one of the small pleasures of growing your own food. The fruit may not win any beauty contests. There can be blemishes, scars, odd shapes and the occasional bite taken by a bird or an insect. Sometimes the fruit isn’t even as sweet as the supermarket variety. But there is something else there. It has a depth of flavour that is difficult to describe and even more difficult to reproduce. I am not sure how much of this can be attributed to the way the fruit is grown, the soil, the climate, the varieties we grow, or simply the fact that it has not travelled halfway across the country before reaching the table. I think that it is a combination of all of these things.
The same principle applies to our cooking. I try to procure most of our produce locally when I am not growing it myself. And when it comes to cooking, I don’t like compromising on ingredients. The happy feeling and the love that goes into preparing food certainly matter, but good intentions cannot turn poor ingredients into good food. Quality ingredients are not the finishing touch; they are the starting point.
I still find it difficult to understand why anyone would want to compromise on the quality of ingredients when cooking for guests. Especially here, in a land and culture where a guest is traditionally treated with the respect accorded to a devta. Yes, good ingredients cost more. But that is simply part of the cost of serving good food. If I am eating at a café or restaurant and I know that the kitchen is using good-quality ingredients, I would much rather pay a little more for the food than save a few rupees at the expense of what goes into it. Something I came across on social media stayed with me: “Don’t ask why the food is expensive. Ask why it is so cheap.”
And then there is another ingredient that cannot be bought. Some of our friends and guests have been kind enough to teach me and my team, most of whom come from the surrounding villages, some of their family recipes. Thankfully, we have managed to get a few of them right enough to make their teachers happy. I particularly treasure these recipes. Someone taught me the proper way to make biryani. Another was kind enough to teach us how to get the pizza dough just right. Yet another patiently showed us that even something as simple as an omelette or potatoes has its own little tricks when it comes to cooking them properly. Even the smallest details can make a difference – when exactly to add the spices to instant noodles, how much cardamom to put into ladoos, or how much fat to work into the dough for a good flatbread. These are often things that only someone who has cooked them many times really knows, and cannot be captured by the ubiquitous instruction: “add as per taste or convinience.”
They are not just recipes written down somewhere or shared in some video. They are things people have grown up eating, learnt from their mothers and grandmothers, and never thought of as anything particularly special. Yet many such recipes are slowly disappearing. In their place, we have an endless supply of online cooking videos, standardised recipes and ready-to-cook food. There is nothing wrong with any of those things, of course. But a family recipe carries something that a recipe found online usually doesn’t – the memory of a particular kitchen, a particular family, and a particular way of doing things. I feel rather lucky to have been given a glimpse into some of these culinary treasures. From time to time, one of them finds its way into our kitchen.
In the end, there is no single secret ingredient. It is a combination of simple things: having good intentions/feeling, starting with quality ingredients, not taking shortcuts with the basics, and being willing to learn from people who know something you don’t. Much of what I have learnt has come from friends, guests, our local community and, of course, from making mistakes in my own kitchen. We try to keep the journey from farm to fork as short as possible- growing what we can, buying locally whenever we can, and cooking with ingredients that are fresh and familiar. It may not make for the cheapest meal, or the most perfectly presented one, but I feel that is where much of the taste comes from.
Click here for all related posts – Browse my blog on slow and sustainable living !
