Shutter is what keeps the film or sensor hidden, and when the shutter opens, the light falls on them, creating the photograph. The time duration for which the shutter opens, to let the light in, is called the shutter speed. Shutter speed is one of the basic camera settings. Here is a short guide to understand the workings of a camera shutter and its various limitations.
Organize and BackUp
With the higher and higher capacity memory cards becoming available, number of photographs clicked are increasing day by day. Digital space is cheap. Photographers can now store hundreds of thousands of photographs without any problem. The trouble arises when trying to find something. Here is a small list of things to do and get your collection of photographs organized.
Buying a Tripod
A good sturdy tripod is probably the next best investment, after a good camera and lens. Regardless of what people might say, nothing works as well as a tripod when it is required. The lack of information and the choice of brands (including many unheard of names) becomes a nerve-wrecking experience. So much so, that after browsing the overwhelming choices available, many photographers just let it go and stick to whatever aids they had been using earlier.

(Waterfalls – Nikon D200 with Nikkor 18-35mm, 1/8 sec)
Camera Shake – How to avoid it?
Unintentional blur which is caused by camera movement can take a toll on good photographs. Large amount of camera shake appears as obvious blurs or multiple overlapping images. What many photographers do not know if that small amount of camera shake can soften the image without causing any obvious blurs. Camera shake is best prevented by use of some simple techniques and precautions.
Nikon CLS and SU-800
Strobes (flashes or speedlights) can be quite confusing when multiple units are to be used. Nikon’s Creative Lighting System (CLS) is the easiest way to deal with this confusion. This is a system which does remote triggering of speedlights, high speed sync, flash color correction, and advanced i-TTL fill flash…. everything wirelessly. Nikon launched the Nikon SU-800 as a control unit for its CLS system. The communication happens over infra-red. Over the last many years, this commander unit has remained unchanged and now there are third party options available that also work with the CLS. Recently I was in the market searching for a commander unit to control my speedlights remotely. This article is a summary of what I learnt and a short review of the Nikon SU-800, that I finally bought.

Photography – Hobby or Profession
For most, photography is a hobby, for some it is a passion. Every serious hobbyist sometime or the other faces the question- to continue photography as a hobby or take it up as a profession?

(A photograph of a stone pathway. This photograph has earned me good amount of money and has been used on a book cover as well.)
Low and High Key
With the ease that comes with various sliders to control exposure and saturation, almost every photograph that goes through processing comes out making full use of the available range. Histograms are spread all across the values and the Curves tool users now make sure to use each and every value that can be employed for displaying the pictures. The pictures look good, full-bodied, rich in tones and colors but they sometimes lack the emotional impact. The art of creating low and high key images is getting lost.
Neutral Density Filters
There was a time when the film was not too sensitive to light and manufacturers were trying their best to boost up the sensitivity. These low sensitivity films required long exposure times and huge amount of light. No wonder that the old portraits had all serious looking people. Imagine being made to stand for many minutes in one pose and sometimes under bright uncomfortable lights! With the advancement of film sensitivity rose another requirement. There were times when the overall light entry had to be reduced without increasing the shutter speed or constricting the aperture too much. This is when the dark filters stepped in.

(Waterfalls – Nikon D200 with Nikkor 50mm, 1/4 sec with ND filter)
Evolution of Nikkors (Nomenclature)
When the auto-focus was starting to make its mark, Nikon took a firm stand and did not alter its mount unlike some of its competitors. This has been a big help for Nikon users till date but is also a big cause of confusion. All of the different lens types which are available now and abbreviations being used might be overwhelming for a user. First and foremost, most of the Nikon lenses are called Nikkors. There are also some lenses which are called Nikon itself. The names are frequently interchanged by users. No confusion there. Both Nikkors and Nikon lenses are made by Nikon (except for few occasional outsourced versions like the 35-70 kit lens of Nikon FM10). Some diehard Nikon fans wince at the mix-up of the names but the fact remains.

Selling at Shutterstock
Why not make some money while enjoying the wonders of photography? With this thought in my mind, I have explored various stock image sites and sold some photographs too. Here is a list of pointers to improve your sales if you are thinking of selling at these stock-images sites.

(A photograph of hills. This image has been selling quite frequently on Shutterstock for reasons unknown to me. Nikon Df with Nikkor 18-35mm lens)
Prevent buildings from falling
Leaning Tower of Pisa is famous because of its tilt. Photographs show it as tilting bell-tower, getting ready to fall. Beautiful and interesting! However, if you are photographing anything else, tilted buildings look weird. We don’t see the buildings around us falling over so why should our cameras do so?
How to learn photography?
“How do I learn photography? Are there any good schools near my home? Are there any good courses that can make me a good photographer? Which are some of the good books to learn photography?”

Fibonacci Spiral and Photography
Leonardo Bonacci (Fibonacci) was an Italian mathematician, sometime in the middle ages. He is best known for his sequence of numbers called Fibonacci Sequence. This is a series of numbers where each consecutive number is a sum of the prior two numbers (1,1,2,3,5,8,13,21,34,55….. and so on). Though these numbers had been known to Indian mathematicians many centuries earlier, they were introduced to Europe by Fibonacci and caught the media attention some years back with the publication of Dan Brown’s novel, The Da Vinci Code. Painters have long used this sequence knowingly or unknowingly to create beautiful artworks and now photographers over the past few decades are understanding to use it.
Fog – Capturing its Mystery
Fog is mysterious to look at. It can give a wonderfully moody and ethereal feel. The contrast runs low, harsh shadows are missing and usually fog is also accompanied by low light. Difficult though it may sound, in reality making good pictures in fog gives a very satisfying feeling.

(Early morning fog – Nikon Df with 135mm lens)
Batteries
Batteries come in all shapes and sizes and work on different principles of chemistry. The common batteries used in cameras and speedlights are AA in size though the smaller version called AAA is also becoming quite popular. I will restrict my discussion on these batteries since this is where we are faced with choices. The odd shaped batteries that come in DSLRs and some other cameras are made as per camera specifications and we really don’t have much choice there. I do not recommend using cheap third party batteries after having invested a huge amount in your camera.
Burning and Dodging
In the film days, the prints were made using a system of enlarger and a paper which reacted to the light falling on it. The negative was placed in the enlarger. As the name suggests, the enlarger projected an enlarged image of the negative on the photographic paper. After fine adjustments, the photographic paper was exposed and the photograph created.
Image File Formats – Basics
There are a myriad of image file formats. Some common and some unheard of. So which is the best format for everyday use? What are the differences and how ideally should one work with these file formats? The choices for the file format are simpler than you might think.
Continue reading Image File Formats – BasicsNikon or Canon?
Which camera to buy – Nikon or Canon? These are two good camera companies and at the time of their first purchase this is one of the commonest questions asked across forums. Before answering the question, let me first get into a bit of history.
Staying Focused
Nothing spoils a photograph more than a wrongly focused subject. The camera systems are now very advanced when it comes to focusing correctly. The AF sensors are super-sensitive and can work in dim light, low contrast and even through linear polarizers. Understanding how the focus systems work and their limitations can go a long way in getting good images.
Curves Tool at your service
“The Curves tool is the most sophisticated tool for changing the color, brightness, contrast or transparency of the active layer or a selection. While the Levels tool allows you to work on Shadows and Highlights, the Curves tool allows you to work on any tonal range.” This is the explanation given by GIMP and it says how powerful the Curves tool really is. It looks intimidating and so most photographers do not touch it but when used properly it is the single most useful tool.
Panning
One of the easy techniques to master and yet panning is rarely used by even the accomplished photographers. Panning when used properly can show motion in a very convincing way. Simply put, it is tracking the movement of a moving subject with the camera and capturing the moment. The result – a sharp subject and a blurred background with streaks showing movement.

(Horse driven carriage speeding by – Nikon D200 with Nikkor 18-35mm lens, f/8, 1/10 sec)
Photowalks
Every photographer has a unique perspective. Appreciating these differences in visualization, composition, and skills, while spending time with like-minded individuals, can greatly enhance one’s abilities. These short trips are now commonly referred to as “photowalks.” Personally, I still call them short photography trips with friends.

(Dry branches at low tide – clicked on a photography trip with few of my friends. Nikon Df with Zeiss 25mm lens)
Traveling with Photography Equipment

(Clouds – Nikon D200 with Nikkor 50mm, f/8, 1/250 sec, ISO – 100. Clicked this photograph on a flight. The in-flight movies never interest me.)
Sharpening
Digital camera sensors and lenses always blur an image to some degree. Even the built in anti-aliasing filters of the cameras soften the image. All this has to be corrected in post-processing or in-camera processing. I click raw. For me this correction is always done in post-processing.
Using colors effectively
Photography is nothing but a representation of light. Colors play a vital role in photography. The world around us is full of colors. So how does one make use of the colors beyond just capturing them as they are?
Megapixels
Number of Megapixels is one of the biggest myth being pushed by salesmen, shopkeepers and even consumers of photography goods. Do they really matter? What is the ideal number of pixels a good camera should have? What are the advantages and disadvantages of having too many or too little of these?

Flash and Tripod – Not allowed !
Every time I visit a museum, old heritage buildings or even religious structures, I am faced by signs saying ‘no flash and no tripods’. Quite a few places completely prohibit photography. I’ll talk about museums here but the same is applicable to all the other places too. The first question that comes to the mind is why the flashes and tripods are not allowed. Are monopods allowed? Can continuous light sources be used? Why is photography itself prohibited at many places?
Flash Modes
One of the first flashes that I owned was a Vivitar 283 flash. It was a manual flash with an ‘Auto-thyristor’. I could set the flash intensity manually or automatically based on aperture and subject distance. I learnt about guide-numbers, filter factors and a lot of interesting stuff while using it. I do miss the good old days.
Now I have speedlights that have complicated menus and functions which I set and forget. Some of them I don’t even use. My favorite speedlight now is Nikon SB600 for reasons of my own. I also have some camera bodies which have built in flash. (I use the words ‘flash’ or ‘speedlight’ to indicate the strobes found in the camera as well as sold separately). In this article I will try to give a basic explanation of various flash modes available on the camera (directly or through the menu) as well as some of the modes or features available on speedlights. I am leaving out the usage guidelines of manual modes since most manual flashes from yesteryear can cause harm to the present-day electronics.
Continue reading Flash ModesMetering Modes
”Embrace light. Admire it. Love it. But above all, know light. Know it for all you are worth, and you will know the key to photography.” – George Eastman.
Getting an accurate measure of light was a tough task in the initial days of photography. Photographers tried various methods. When everything failed, the concept of ‘bracketing the shots for exposure’ was born. For getting that perfect exposure, it is important to understand how the light meters work.
Balancing Act (in Color)
White is white. Or is it? We see a white-colored shirt as white when the person wearing it stands under the sun or in the shade or even inside the house. We see it as a white shirt regardless of the weather outside or the time of the day. Our eyes are wonderful. They adapt to ambient light colors. When it comes to photography, it takes a whole new dimension. The same white shirt looks bluish, in cloudy weather or in shade. It looks yellow-orange when photographed inside the house when the room is lit by bulbs. The camera sensor or the film can not adjust automatically to the color change. The auto ambient light adjustment happens in the post-processing stage even if you select it in the camera. (The post-processing then takes place in the camera)
There are some terms and fundamentals that have to be understood first before going any further.
Color Temperature –
It has been described most simply as a method of describing the color characteristics of light, usually either warm (yellowish) or cool (bluish), and measuring it in degrees of Kelvin (°K). Color temperatures over 5000 K are called cool colors (bluish white), while lower color temperatures (2700 K – 3000 K) are called warm colors.

Camouflage
Camouflage or the art of blending into the surroundings is commonly used by soldiers. Photographers too have adopted this. Now I see camouflage costumes, covers for tripods and lenses, backpacks and camera-bags, tents, water-bottles, flash-lights and what not.
Why soldiers use camouflage? Our eyes see colors in the day-light and our subconscious ignores anything that does not stand out. Person covered in green and yellow camouflaged costume is therefore difficult to notice in a forest compared to another person dressed in red. The one in red will stand out (to some extent due to the effects of color theory too on our minds). The soldiers in their camo-dresses, can therefore remain hidden from other soldiers.
Next lens to buy?
Another common question that many photographers ask is which lens to buy next. The fact that the camera has an option to change lenses makes people feel that more lenses are required. The internet generation calls this disease as ‘GAS’ or ‘Gear Acquisition Syndrome’. Everyone suffers from it one time or the other. However there are times when there is a genuine need to buy a new lens.
Red Filters (and other coloured filters)
The other day I wrote about Black and White photography and the very next day, I got an email about the red filters. It seems that they are some of the least understood filters nowadays. Instagram users apply various filters, including red colored, at times to improve their selfies (a term which I fail to understand). Here in the article, I am talking about the true red glass that fits over the lens. They are also denoted by the Wratten numbers from 23A to 29.
What are these red filters and how are they used? First, let me clarify a few things. Instead of calling them red filters, they should ideally be called blue/green-inhibiting or blue/green-subtraction filter. That is exactly what they do.
Black & White
Black and White photographs have a magical quality to them. I find them pleasing to look at. So, what exactly makes them look good? A philosophical question – Would Ansel Adams have used Black and White film for his landscapes if good quality color film would have been available since the beginning? How about Henri Cartier Bresson using color films on his Leica? Paul Simon sang about how Kodachrome gives us those nice bright colors (and also further in the song- Everything looks worse in Black and White).
Who is a Photographer?
Recently I came across some really old photographers who were cribbing about the surge of digital cameras, mobile phone cameras and so on. In their opinion this had really brought down the overall quality of photographs created. They were not ‘real’ photographers in their opinion. I agree to some extent. There are lots and lots of people with easy access to good cameras, but this is not a bad thing. Large amount of sales translates to good profit for the camera companies and in turn this leads to reduction in prices of otherwise expensive pieces of equipment. More sales also lead to investments in research and development and therefore progress in technology. The bad thing is that when these buyers of photography equipment do not want to learn to use their new acquisitions and churn out hoards of average looking snapshots. Snapshots, which could have been better with just a little bit of awareness. Another sad thing is when these camera users or mobile phone users try to capture images of people without any kind of permission or create disturbance or even nuisance while doing so.
Camera modes (PSAM and more)
Camera mode dial is something which really gets on photographers’ nerves. Every photographer has camera modes which are never used. This relates to style of shooting but more so with the comfort level in using these various modes. One of the first things to becoming a good photographer is to become comfortable with the camera. I thought I’ll write a small description of these various camera modes for clarity’s sake. I started of with cameras having manual mode and I still find Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority a luxury which I often use. The description may therefore be a little biased from my point of view.
Remove Noise
When it comes to post-processing, there are options to remove noise as well as to add noise. This is yet another contradiction that every photographer faces once in a while.
Noise in photography refers to the small specks which become visible at high ISOs. Sometimes noise can also refer to areas of discoloration. In the film days, the higher ISO films had ‘grain’. Noise is unwanted but grains can add character to the photograph. This statement should clear all the doubts. Read it again if you want to. Unfortunately a lot of image editing programs call this ‘grain’ also noise and thus the confusion.
To Chimp or Not To
‘Chimping’ is a slang used in photography world to name the habit of reviewing every photograph, immediately after it is shot. Old photographers frown on this habit. New photographers say that if preview screen is available then why not use it. Both of them are correct.
Normal Lens
The normal lens or the standard lens was the most common kit lens with almost any camera before quality zooms and crop sensor digital cameras came into the scene. So what exactly is a normal lens? Leica came up with this concept and termed the lens that makes everything look like how our eyes see as ‘normal’ and provided 50mm lens for this purpose. Normal lens is a lens that represents the relative distances between the objects in a same manner as we perceive. The perspective is almost similar. The angle of view covered is also almost equal to the area our eyes consciously see (The area of conscious vision is actually much less than the angle of view that our eyes are actually capable of seeing. For a comparison of our eyes and camera – Our Eyes vs Camera). Normal lenses are prime lenses in the region of 40 to 58 mm focal length with the 50mm being the most common, on a 35mm frame size or a ‘full size’ sensor. Some manufacturers also called them standard since these were the commonest lenses once upon a time and were quite frequently the standard kit lens provided with camera bodies.

(Some normal lenses)
Composition Rules – Interpreting Images
If you have already read my two other posts related to commonly used clichés in compositions, then try to interpret some of the images below. I have also given an explanation why the photograph appears strong but read that after you have formed your own opinion about which common composition rules or clichés are in play. Remember your own opinion is more important that these so called rules, which quite frequently I despise of.
Planks

(Nikon D200 with Nikkor 18-35mm at 18mm, f/8, 1/90 sec, ISO 100)
Composition Rules – Part II
This article is in continuation with Composition Rules – Part I and covers some more rules of compositions.
Human Element
Humans in general love company. It is once again the evolutionary aspect in play. Since ages, people have lived in groups, hunted in groups and even fought wars in groups. Our subconscious finds comfort when other humans are around. It is therefore natural that presence of humans adds an interesting element to most photographs. Though not all genres of photography blend well with human element. Sometimes they can also be a distraction. Very careful use of human element can add drama to otherwise mundane photographs.

(Tea plantation with workers picking tea leaves at a distance)
Composition Rules – Part I
Composition Rules or Clichés, as I like to call them, have been used by artists since long and for the last many decades, photographers have also started using them to their advantage, calling them the ‘rules of composition’. These play on the creative side of our brain and guide our subconscious mind across a photograph. Some of these are highly debated ones. Proceed at your own risk. Risk of loosing your own way of looking at things!
Leading Lines
Some objects that have a a difference in color, contrast or texture, tend to associate with one another. When seen from far or from periphery of our vision, they form structures or lines. Sometimes there may be shapes in an image that are actually lines. These lines tend to lead a viewer’s eyes from one point to another. Culture and education also modifies this to an extent. Leading lines is one of the commonly used clichés that almost always works.

Our Eyes vs Camera
Very frequently I come across the comparison of eyes and camera. Photography students are frequently taught that the camera works like a human eye and medical students are taught that the eyes work like a camera. This gets one wondering how are they similar and where does each of them stand out.

Post Processing RAW
Work done in darkrooms was an important step in creating beautiful images. Now it has been replaced by computers. Post-processing is vital. In layman terms, processing of data (photograph) captured on camera is required for the image to be seen as per the settings. This can happen in the camera, when it is called in-camera processing or the raw data can be processed at a later stage on computer, this is called post-processing.

(Out of the camera jpg on the left and on the right, jpg which was post-processed from raw)
Polarizing Filters
Polarizing Filters or simply Polarizers were second most used filters in the film era, first being the UV filters. Polarizers work on the principle of letting only one plane of light waves to pass through. Remaining planes of light waves are blocked. Earlier polarizers had a single polarizing layer. Then came the autofocus cameras. There were times when the angle of polarized light being let into the lens would not coincide with the autofocus sensors and autofocus used to fail. Circular polarizers were introduced. These had another plate after the polarizing layer to rotate the light. This reduced the problems with the auto-focus systems. Due to their construction method, the circular polarizers show the polarizing effect only when seen from ‘thread side’. When seen from the ‘groove side’ polarizing effect is not seen, instead just a color shift is visible.

(Polarizers in different sizes and thicknesses)
Continue reading Polarizing FiltersDo I use Tripods?
Tripods have been the most used photography accessory since the time photography came into this world. Old films of ISOs less than 100 demanded a very slow shutter speeds. Did you know that when the first (original) Kodachrome was launched, it had an ISO equivalent of 6 ? By early 1960s were they able to cross ISO of 25 ! Tripods were a must for good natural light exposure then.
Now we have super sensitive sensors with excellent noise reduction, lenses that in more and more light and mechanisms to take away some level of camera shake while shooting hand-held. Are tripods needed now a days? Do I use tripods?

(Nikon D200, Sigma 150-500 at 450mm, f/9, 1/160, ISO 200, handheld with image stabilization switched on. It was tough holding the heavy lens mounted on the camera but it gave me freedom to track the deers as they walked around.)
Cleaning DSLR and Lens
The worst fate that a photography equipment can have is to remain packed and kept on a shelf in someone’s home. I have seen some of the best photography equipment available, not being used by their owners. It pains me to see all that beautiful equipment not being used. Recently I gathered the courage to ask a friend of mine about his beautiful digital Leica kept in a glass shelf. The answer I got- “It is too dirty outside in the city to risk carrying it around. I use the camera on family holidays when we go to some nice clean countryside. I however did not take it on my last holiday since that was in a beach resort with lots of sand and wind.” A few other photographers also have similar thoughts. For most people, their photography equipment is an expensive purchase and they do not want it to get dirty.
Prime Lens or Zoom Lens?
One of the commonest questions that a lot of photography beginners ask – Which lens to buy next? In my opinion if a person is asking this, then the person is not yet ready to buy another lens. (More on this – Next lens to buy?) My first lens was a normal prime lens. Once I felt the need for a wider lens, after many years of use, I bought my second lens and so on. I have very few lenses in my collection and most of them were bought after facing limitations of the earlier lens for a long time. I do have a few lenses which were bought out of sheer desire rather than actual need but they are few in number.
Micro Nikkor 105mm f/2.8 AI-s
I do macro photography once in a while and have tried various lenses. One of my favorites is Micro Nikkor 105mm f/2.8 AI-s. Nikon calls its macro lenses as ‘micro’. Its specifications are easily available on internet. Nikon introduced this lens in 1983 and was based on their similar micro-Nikkors of varying speeds. It is a manual focus lens.

(Micro Nikkor 105mm f/2.8 AI-s)
Inside my camera bag
I usually carry a small shoulder bag or a messenger style bag for carrying my photography stuff. The bag usually has a camera with a lens mounted on it and sometimes a spare lens. Too many lenses tend to distract me. So I limit myself to just two prime lenses.
Religion and Photography
Cameras are now showing up everywhere. They are more prolific than mushrooms in rains. Everyone has them. Some use the cameras in mobile phones, others use compact cameras. Combine this with the cultural insensitivity of tourists and we have a big nuisance being faced by religious places. It is therefore natural that photography is prohibited in many such places.
I have a special attraction to religious places. Regardless of the religion, the peace, the atmosphere of faith combined with the mystery of religion which has trickled down the ages, makes these places intriguing for me. I have an urge to take my camera out and click everything that I see.
Dry Cabinet
I spent a good amount of my time living in coastal cities with my photography equipment. Coastal cities have high humidity and this leads to a common problem in optics – lens fungus.
In the earlier days of photography, people were not much bothered about the fungus. People owned and used a single lens most of the time which helped by exposing the optical elements to sun-light every once in a while. This prevented fungus. Even if the fungus grew, people did not notice it till it started causing excessive softening of the pictures.
Ansel Adams – His Influence
When I was a small kid, I found a book on photography in my grandfather’s library. I remember browsing through it and being amazed by the full-page photographs. The ones that attracted me most were that of a church and a photograph of a large rock with moon shining on top. When I could read the book, I understood that these were clicked by a photographer named Ansel Adams. There was no internet then and it was hard to find any information which was not easily available. A search in the school library gave me some more ideas about who Ansel Adams was.
Buying a used lens
Nikon gives me the advantage to use some really old glass. Most of the lens are compatible with even the newest of the DSLRs. User Manuals of all the cameras also list the lens that are compatible with a camera and which ones are not. Apart from old Nikkor glass, many used / old lenses from various other manufacturers are also available in the market. People keep upgrading and selling old lenses.
To use a clear filter or not?
One of the heated debates in photography is about the use of clear filters (UV/Haze/Clear) for protection.
The photographers discouraging use of the filters give arguments about the ineffectiveness in providing real protection to lens in case of fall, adding a piece of glass in front of an expensive lens bringing down the quality of the whole setup, increased flares and halos. Hoods provide better protection. There are incidents where the lens with a filter fell down and the filter failed to provide any protection and in a few instances ended up scratching the front element.
Zeiss 135 Apo Sonar or Nikon AF 135 DC
I was recently faced with a tough choice. I wanted to buy a 135mm lens for a full frame camera body. Purpose was for an all-rounder lens to carry around. I wanted a lens to do portraits, sometimes click pictures of butterflies, street photography as well as occasional family pictures from vacations. 105mm lenses were a little short for the kind of portraits I had in mind so I did not look at those options. 135mm is the ideal focal length for portraits according to me. The flattening is almost perfect and the angle of view ideal. I did a lot of research on 135mm lenses and tried out a few.
After searching around and trying various optics, I was left with two choices –
- Zeiss 135mm f/2 Apo Sonnar T* ZF.2
- Nikon AF 135mm f/2 DC
Caring for memory cards
Film era has ended and so have the lead lined cases for transporting films. The memory cards are the in thing now and they come with their own set of problems.
First of all, put your mind at ease. The memory cards are really really sturdy. Photographers tend to either loose them or upgrade to higher capacity cards. Very few of us have actually witnessed card failures.
A strong composition
What is a strong composition? Most of the advanced photographers who come to me end up asking this question.
In simple words – A strong composition is the one that puts your idea clearly. Ansel Adams has said, ‘There is nothing worse than a sharp image of a fuzzy concept.’
Continue reading A strong composition